Updating Windows 10 Insider Preview - At least keep the dowloaded segments!

Are you even trying Microsoft?

I don't know how many times I have tried to update my insider preview, but I keep returning to my computer to find it back at the login screen.

Worse than that, the downloading starts back at zero. Will it ever download?

Do you want anybody to take part in the Windows Insider Program?

Limp mode, normal speed/rpm then no fuel when pressing on the accelerator? Change the Thermostat (Ford Focus and others)

Ugh! I couldn't wrap my head around this one. I would have an occasional stumble, then the car would suddenly be in idle mode - it wouldn't matter how hard I would press on the accelerator.
I would get no codes. If I floored it repeatedly, it would stumble somewhat and the fuel mixture would be rich (as per the OBDII readout).


This is what I tried :

• Fuel Pump : I got access by cutting the sheet metal under the back seat. Took out the pump with the sending unit, tested the pump, cleaned the contacts, and put it back in. It seemed fine, for a bit - but the stumble continued.
• DPFE : I tried cleaning it, then replacing it with another one. No change. My EGR is so rusted that I should have tried replacing that too, but time was short. 
• Oxygen sensors  : They measure the oxygen content before (upstream) and after (downstream) the catalytic converter. Running rich is not a good thing for neither the O2 sensor nor the catalytic converter. Again, time to get a replacement was an issue. I cleaned the upstream one with MAF cleaner and put it back in. The downstream sensor was so stuck in place, I couldn't get it out.

When the vehicle became so unreliable that I felt is was unsafe to turn with the fear of the engine no longer providing fuel to accelerate, I noticed that the temperature reading on my cluster was just left of centre. Connecting my ELM327 to my Android phone and using Torque, I saw the the coolant temperature of the vehicle never stayed above 80C! When the car somehow started operating normally, it was above 83C. Should I turn heat into the cab, by allowing coolant to go through the heat exchanger, the engine would suddenly stumble again as its temperature would drop below 80C. Thermostat maintenance was required. I should have changed it when I changed my water pump last year. The thermostat is designed to open at 88C or 192F. It appears that the thermostat was getting stuck open! Three bolts, well one was so rusted I had to break the thermostat housing, three hoses and and an electrical connection to the temperature sensor, and I got this mysterious automobile problem solved.

Since I've replaced the thermostat, the coolant temperature is between 90C to 93C and my fuel economy is back up to 6.1-7l/100km or 38 to 33 MPG.

Automobile sputtering/hesistation/loss of power in snowy or rainy conditions - MAF sensor and air filter

It was a rare occasion, but it worried me. When driving in the snow, or in the rain, or even very damp conditions, my engine would occasionally sputter. No engine codes would show up, and it was consistently around 75-85km/h or 2000 RPM ( or maybe 1800-2100 revolutions per minute). I had no idea why it was happening during a steady state operation.

I let my car be as the random sputter was just so rarely an issue - until last week. I thought it had to be fixed.

It may have been a combination of both the air filter and the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) or just one or another, but I serviced both. Since I changed the filter and cleaned the MAF, driving in heavy snow has not caused my engine to sputter.

Instructions for changing your air filter and cleaning the sensor are on the filter box, the sensor cleaner can and in your owner's manual. Nevertheless, for the sake of Google Images  I decided to post some of my experience.

When I had a garage change my filter, it was free as they try to sell other vehicle maintenance,
I have reason to believe that they just cracked the box open to take out the old filter and replace it with a new one. 

It seems like the construction of the new filters will minimize the risk of warping. There are two strips of glue or thermoplastic ( ie glue gun )  that greatly increase the filter's rigidity.

Spray the sensor with the cleaner ( mostly composed of hexane )  on both sides and let dry.
Following the instructions on the container is all that you need to do.

As a note, getting the old air filter out, was no easy task. I love plastic as it is inexpensive, non conductive, lightweight and flexible. I love metals as they are versatile, can be repaired, machined and often easily replaced. Unfortunately the screws and nuts that retained my filter in place were so corroded that I was unable to remove the filter enclosure cover and remove the whole filter box. There are some steps on how to repair it here,  however I just used zip-ties. Inelegant, I know, but it got the job done.

Before inserting the filter and reconnecting the duct, use some plumber's grease or dielectric grease to protect the rubber. I use the product from Oatey. It is composed of several weights of silicone oil, if you let it sit, the lighter oil will separate from the larger weight. The silicone also makes it easier to disassemble next time. 

The aluminum plate at the base of the sensor started to corrode.
I am not sure what is the source of corrosive material- battery acid, potash, lye? 

http://www.airtexproducts.com/news-blog-mass-airflow-sensor-an-easy-fix-for-big-problems-from-a-little-instrument.aspx

http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-crosstour-2003-current-118/mysterious-hesitation-when-driving-snow-06-accord-2679947/page2/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-2000-2004-Ford-Focus-Air-Cleaner-Box-for-un

Build a dash camera and back up/rearview camera using an old Android Phone for about $15 CAD

Using an old Android phone as a dashcam is not a new idea. There are plenty of options available in Google Play. Backup cameras can reduce the risks of accidents.  In reality, only once has either camera has ever really been useful to me, but with the intention of using my Android phone that I put aside as I returned to my BlackBerry Curve, I was thinking of how could I make the lowest cost dashcam/rearview camera/Offline GPS.

Here is what you need to get from the Google Play on your phone :

GPS - Sygic ( there are other options if you look around )
Dash Camera - CaroO
Web Camera - CameraFi

Parts :

$3 Windshield phone holder http://forums.redflagdeals.com/dollarama-gps-cell-phone-windshield-mount-3-00-a-1455931/

$3 Webcam as the rearview camera http://dollarablog.blogspot.ca/2013/12/gadgets-dordi-clavier-et-webcam.html
( Verdict: Acheter )
There will be no OSD (On-Screen Display) of the distances using a regular webcam. The camera is fine according to the review so it can give you an image of what is behind you.You could use some silicone caulk around the camera to make it waterproof. You do not need infrared LEDs as the brake lights give off plenty of light.


$4 USB 2.0 A to USB A female cable  http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-quality-10FT-3M-USB-2-0-Male-To-Female-Extension-Cable-Line-For-Computer-Laptop/712587_32400410442.html 
It may be some distance from your trunk to the dash. It may be possible to find a cheaper cable, or a camera with a longer cable.

$2 OTG Cable with Power http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-1pc-Micro-USB-Host-OTG-Cable-With-USB-Plug-Power-Adapter-For-Sumgsung-Galaxy-U/32571526812.html
You will want to power your phone all the time to record video. It will also allow you to power the USB camera.
 
$1.25 USB 12V output  http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Micro-Auto-Universal-Dual-2-Port-USB-Car-Charger-For-iPhone-For-iPad-Mini-Car-Charger/32444018162.html

How to hide your cables :
http://www.roadlens.com/#!how-to-conceal-power-cord/cahc

Stripped Brake Caliper Slide Bolts/Pins! Now what? Wire, thread repair, oversize pin, drill and tap, braze with bronze then tap or replace bracket or spindle.

It happened to me. Apparently, it is not uncommon here is the rust belt. Salt, water and the heat from braking makes it so that steel rusts, really well.

Here are some different solutions to repairing a stripped caliper bolt hole.

1. Thread repair kit. (YouTube video here) The hole must be drilled and tapped to a larger size hole. A piece of wire in the shape of the target size thread is then inserted in the hole. The caliper pin can now be replaced with the correct thread. ($30-$50) Then again, just wrapping a wire around the thread of the original caliper pin may be strong enough. Go AvE!   Manly-Man Skill: Repair Stripped Threads with Nothing but a Bolt, a Wire and a Flat Bastard.

2. An oversized caliper pin. The slide pin is the same size, however the thread is slightly larger. You can drive in the thread and a new hole will be tapped. ($15-$35)

3. A larger bolt. Drill, tap, insert a regular bolt. Ugly, but it works. The head of the bolt may compress against the rubber boot of the original caliper pin. ($3 - add $8 if you don't have a drill bit and tap).

4. Clean, apply flux, and braze with bronze. The surface must be very clean to ensure that the bronze is making alloy bond on the surface of the steel, not just cooled pearls of bronze. Drill to the required hole size and then tap. Bronze is easier to cut than steel, so your tap should not suffer damage from the hard steel of the bracket or spindle. (Depends on your tool inventory - a can of MAPP gas or brazing fuel is $10, the drill bit and tap about $8.)
It may also be possible to fill the hole with weld filler material such as 6011 or 6013 -  - however, machining iron that has been welded may be very very difficult as the carbon deposits harden the steel weld. There are equally some metallurgical considerations if you are going to use a wire fed welder ( MIG or FCAW ).

5. Buy a new spindle/bracket. The price depends on the availability of the parts from a scrap yard or what you can find online.

Links

http://www.repairengineering.com/thread-repair.html

http://www.locknstitch.com/pdf/gmrc_white_paper.pdf

Sustainable Design - Automobiles - Unifed Standards

In the world of computers, there are some standards : Voltages, ATX power supplies, hole locations for motherboard mounting, power connectors, RAM or memory types and slots, buses and other connections like USB, Ethernet, 802.11 etc.   Automobile manufacturers should and could have the same approach. Since the 1990s, and even earlier, automobiles have been considered mature products. Little has changed in the past 100 years ranging from an internal combustion engine, lights, steering wheel, hydraulic brakes and air inflated tires. If there were a limited number of categories of vehicles with respect to weight and usage, the interchangeability of parts would be a step towards sustainability. It would improve manufacturing processes by making the industry more competitive, while allow engineers and technicians to develop solutions which would make our vehicles safer and more efficient. Better quality materials would also make the cars last longer.

An automobile with an internal combustion engine has many components which shouldn't vary from one vehicle to another :

• Brakes : A hydraulic system where a piston with a large surface is depressed with low pressure resulting in high pressure at the brake calipers and wheel cylinders  If the cars were known to carry a maximum amount of weight / passengers, at a given speed, the brakes are to be designed to be able to absorb a given amount of energy.  Make a single size of caliper, brake pad and rotor that would fit all cars in that same class. Standards for the brake fittings would also be appreciated. ( in the case of electric motors, regenerative brakes are another case altogether. I can't wait for them to go mainstream. On that note, autonomous cars would also be appreciated. ) Protected brake lines which are made of copper-nickel, would ensure that they last more than 10 years in areas where salt accelerates corrosion.
• Tires : There are standards when it comes to tires and wheels, however the variety is superfluous. If there was a norm for all sedans to have 380mm (15") or 355mm(14") wheels, the tire size could be set for all cars - width, aspect ratio. At the time being, using a tire that is larger or smaller, thus a change in circumference/diameter, can result in a damaged automatic transmission. More vehicles using the same size tires and wheels would mean less tires and wheels being scrapped.
• Suspension, steering rack etc. : There have been countless hours spent on redesigning the wheel. Some changes to the components can improve the ride of a car, yet for most the changes are not that noticeable. Springs and struts could be of standard size and fitting, likewise for many of the other components of a steering rack.
• Electrical components : This is quite easy. A simple start would be a numbering system for fuses. There are already many standards when it comes to the light bulbs on vehicles. Electric locks, window regulator motors, audio system connections etc. could also be the same across all vehicles.
• Disposables : Spark plugs, oil filters, PCV valves, thermostats, air filters- same sizes and locations ( right/left )  for all vehicles could also be designed within a certain class. 

There are some standards for items like fluids, such as motor oil, coolant, brake fluid and automatic transmission fluid. Were standards be to extended for other parts, automobiles would seen as a technological triumph improving our lives.

Sustainable Design - Razors - 5 blade, 4 blade, 3 blade, twin blade, double edge safety razor. Which one is best?

I am a fool. Retail therapy, impulse buys and occasional bad days made me spend far more than I needed on razors. 

My razor collection (sic). Left to right : Schick Hydro 5, Double Edge razor(reflective band to differentiate with my roommate's), M5 Personna/Baléa, twin safety disposable razor (Personna?), Gillette Fusion

For millennia,  the straight razor, a piece of metal sharpened and honed to cut hair was used a razor. It needs to be maintained, however is it reliable and provides a good clean shave. From the design standpoint, it is close to perfect : effective, long lasting, easy of use, low cost. A straight razor can be acquired for $6, a whetstone for another $5, and a strop for $2. All three will outlive you. There is a learning curve with regard to the maintenance of the blade, however that applies to most objects we want to keep for a long period of time. A move that I intend to do soon.

For the sake of reviewing, I will describe my experiences about the various commercial razors shown above. As a disclaimer, I must state that my preference is the double edge razor - in part for low cost, in part for convenience, in part for reducing the amount of waste that I create. Plastic and metals are recyclable, however when they are joined in a disposable razor head it is a costly process.

So much manufacturing technology that goes in to the garbage after only a couple weeks.

The most advertised Gillette Fusion is a 5 blade razor. It lasts a couple weeks - or 4 if you only shave 4 days a week according to Gillette. At close to $4 a piece, it is a little steep. That is about 25¢ a shave if you are really pushing it. They can be maintained with a bit of patience by stropping them on denim jeans. I haven't had that much luck. At two strokes a second for 100 strokes, it corresponds to less than a minute. I could give it another shot, however the quality of the shave wouldn't justify that effort. The brilliance of disposable items is a marker of progress? Please explain.

With regard to the construction, the handle and cartridge holder are the weakest parts of the razor. While I understand the use of soft rubber ribs to improve grip, it doesn't feel very solid or pleasant. The head holders are exposed which could be damaged by an accidental drop. 

Shaving is fine, however I still managed to cut myself, get shaving bumps and have had a hard time under the nose (philtral column) and above the chin (mentolabial sulcus or the location a labret piercing). 

The Shick Hydro 5 with the lubrication strip folded back for better reach

The M5 - A very solid blade, but it still get plugged with hair

The other 5 blade contenders are the Schick Hydro 5 (far left) and the Balea or Personna M5(centre). Both have much better handles than the Gillette Fusion, with no exposed parts on the M5, but the shaving head suffers from some of the clogging problems that I encountered with the Gillette Fusion. The cost per shave for each are overpriced. While the finish of the Schick handle is great - anodized aluminum is beautiful and the rubber is very firm, cartridges are too expensive. In fact, I would like to have that handle for my double edge razor.

The disposable razor is the worst. The shave is fine, but it isn't very satisfying. It will get you by, but the top blade gets plugged, impossible to clean properly, and only lasts a about a week. It costs about 5¢ per shave if you get them in a pack of 5 for a dollar or so.

My favourite by far is the double edge razor. I recently received a Merkur as a gift. I love it. There are plenty of knock offs, which do a great job. You may have to try a variety of different blades to see which one is the best match of with your razor. The bend angle of the razor, your holding angle, the angle of the blade, the thickness of the blade and ultimately the growth pattern of your hair are just a few variables that come to mind. It comes to about 2¢ a shave, pushing it to about 1¢. The blades can be sharpened or stropped over denim or leather. A sharpener could be built from a few wheels that roll around or over the whetstone, a block of wood with the angle adjusted for the blades.  Perhaps, I will build a sharpener and post the construction details.