Updating Windows 10 Insider Preview - At least keep the dowloaded segments!

Are you even trying Microsoft?

I don't know how many times I have tried to update my insider preview, but I keep returning to my computer to find it back at the login screen.

Worse than that, the downloading starts back at zero. Will it ever download?

Do you want anybody to take part in the Windows Insider Program?

Limp mode, normal speed/rpm then no fuel when pressing on the accelerator? Change the Thermostat (Ford Focus and others)

Ugh! I couldn't wrap my head around this one. I would have an occasional stumble, then the car would suddenly be in idle mode - it wouldn't matter how hard I would press on the accelerator.
I would get no codes. If I floored it repeatedly, it would stumble somewhat and the fuel mixture would be rich (as per the OBDII readout).


This is what I tried :

• Fuel Pump : I got access by cutting the sheet metal under the back seat. Took out the pump with the sending unit, tested the pump, cleaned the contacts, and put it back in. It seemed fine, for a bit - but the stumble continued.
• DPFE : I tried cleaning it, then replacing it with another one. No change. My EGR is so rusted that I should have tried replacing that too, but time was short. 
• Oxygen sensors  : They measure the oxygen content before (upstream) and after (downstream) the catalytic converter. Running rich is not a good thing for neither the O2 sensor nor the catalytic converter. Again, time to get a replacement was an issue. I cleaned the upstream one with MAF cleaner and put it back in. The downstream sensor was so stuck in place, I couldn't get it out.

When the vehicle became so unreliable that I felt is was unsafe to turn with the fear of the engine no longer providing fuel to accelerate, I noticed that the temperature reading on my cluster was just left of centre. Connecting my ELM327 to my Android phone and using Torque, I saw the the coolant temperature of the vehicle never stayed above 80C! When the car somehow started operating normally, it was above 83C. Should I turn heat into the cab, by allowing coolant to go through the heat exchanger, the engine would suddenly stumble again as its temperature would drop below 80C. Thermostat maintenance was required. I should have changed it when I changed my water pump last year. The thermostat is designed to open at 88C or 192F. It appears that the thermostat was getting stuck open! Three bolts, well one was so rusted I had to break the thermostat housing, three hoses and and an electrical connection to the temperature sensor, and I got this mysterious automobile problem solved.

Since I've replaced the thermostat, the coolant temperature is between 90C to 93C and my fuel economy is back up to 6.1-7l/100km or 38 to 33 MPG.

Automobile sputtering/hesistation/loss of power in snowy or rainy conditions - MAF sensor and air filter

It was a rare occasion, but it worried me. When driving in the snow, or in the rain, or even very damp conditions, my engine would occasionally sputter. No engine codes would show up, and it was consistently around 75-85km/h or 2000 RPM ( or maybe 1800-2100 revolutions per minute). I had no idea why it was happening during a steady state operation.

I let my car be as the random sputter was just so rarely an issue - until last week. I thought it had to be fixed.

It may have been a combination of both the air filter and the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) or just one or another, but I serviced both. Since I changed the filter and cleaned the MAF, driving in heavy snow has not caused my engine to sputter.

Instructions for changing your air filter and cleaning the sensor are on the filter box, the sensor cleaner can and in your owner's manual. Nevertheless, for the sake of Google Images  I decided to post some of my experience.

When I had a garage change my filter, it was free as they try to sell other vehicle maintenance,
I have reason to believe that they just cracked the box open to take out the old filter and replace it with a new one. 

It seems like the construction of the new filters will minimize the risk of warping. There are two strips of glue or thermoplastic ( ie glue gun )  that greatly increase the filter's rigidity.

Spray the sensor with the cleaner ( mostly composed of hexane )  on both sides and let dry.
Following the instructions on the container is all that you need to do.

As a note, getting the old air filter out, was no easy task. I love plastic as it is inexpensive, non conductive, lightweight and flexible. I love metals as they are versatile, can be repaired, machined and often easily replaced. Unfortunately the screws and nuts that retained my filter in place were so corroded that I was unable to remove the filter enclosure cover and remove the whole filter box. There are some steps on how to repair it here,  however I just used zip-ties. Inelegant, I know, but it got the job done.

Before inserting the filter and reconnecting the duct, use some plumber's grease or dielectric grease to protect the rubber. I use the product from Oatey. It is composed of several weights of silicone oil, if you let it sit, the lighter oil will separate from the larger weight. The silicone also makes it easier to disassemble next time. 

The aluminum plate at the base of the sensor started to corrode.
I am not sure what is the source of corrosive material- battery acid, potash, lye? 

http://www.airtexproducts.com/news-blog-mass-airflow-sensor-an-easy-fix-for-big-problems-from-a-little-instrument.aspx

http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-crosstour-2003-current-118/mysterious-hesitation-when-driving-snow-06-accord-2679947/page2/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-2000-2004-Ford-Focus-Air-Cleaner-Box-for-un

Build a dash camera and back up/rearview camera using an old Android Phone for about $15 CAD

Using an old Android phone as a dashcam is not a new idea. There are plenty of options available in Google Play. Backup cameras can reduce the risks of accidents.  In reality, only once has either camera has ever really been useful to me, but with the intention of using my Android phone that I put aside as I returned to my BlackBerry Curve, I was thinking of how could I make the lowest cost dashcam/rearview camera/Offline GPS.

Here is what you need to get from the Google Play on your phone :

GPS - Sygic ( there are other options if you look around )
Dash Camera - CaroO
Web Camera - CameraFi

Parts :

$3 Windshield phone holder http://forums.redflagdeals.com/dollarama-gps-cell-phone-windshield-mount-3-00-a-1455931/

$3 Webcam as the rearview camera http://dollarablog.blogspot.ca/2013/12/gadgets-dordi-clavier-et-webcam.html
( Verdict: Acheter )
There will be no OSD (On-Screen Display) of the distances using a regular webcam. The camera is fine according to the review so it can give you an image of what is behind you.You could use some silicone caulk around the camera to make it waterproof. You do not need infrared LEDs as the brake lights give off plenty of light.


$4 USB 2.0 A to USB A female cable  http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-quality-10FT-3M-USB-2-0-Male-To-Female-Extension-Cable-Line-For-Computer-Laptop/712587_32400410442.html 
It may be some distance from your trunk to the dash. It may be possible to find a cheaper cable, or a camera with a longer cable.

$2 OTG Cable with Power http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-1pc-Micro-USB-Host-OTG-Cable-With-USB-Plug-Power-Adapter-For-Sumgsung-Galaxy-U/32571526812.html
You will want to power your phone all the time to record video. It will also allow you to power the USB camera.
 
$1.25 USB 12V output  http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Micro-Auto-Universal-Dual-2-Port-USB-Car-Charger-For-iPhone-For-iPad-Mini-Car-Charger/32444018162.html

How to hide your cables :
http://www.roadlens.com/#!how-to-conceal-power-cord/cahc

Stripped Brake Caliper Slide Bolts/Pins! Now what? Wire, thread repair, oversize pin, drill and tap, braze with bronze then tap or replace bracket or spindle.

It happened to me. Apparently, it is not uncommon here is the rust belt. Salt, water and the heat from braking makes it so that steel rusts, really well.

Here are some different solutions to repairing a stripped caliper bolt hole.

1. Thread repair kit. (YouTube video here) The hole must be drilled and tapped to a larger size hole. A piece of wire in the shape of the target size thread is then inserted in the hole. The caliper pin can now be replaced with the correct thread. ($30-$50) Then again, just wrapping a wire around the thread of the original caliper pin may be strong enough. Go AvE!   Manly-Man Skill: Repair Stripped Threads with Nothing but a Bolt, a Wire and a Flat Bastard.

2. An oversized caliper pin. The slide pin is the same size, however the thread is slightly larger. You can drive in the thread and a new hole will be tapped. ($15-$35)

3. A larger bolt. Drill, tap, insert a regular bolt. Ugly, but it works. The head of the bolt may compress against the rubber boot of the original caliper pin. ($3 - add $8 if you don't have a drill bit and tap).

4. Clean, apply flux, and braze with bronze. The surface must be very clean to ensure that the bronze is making alloy bond on the surface of the steel, not just cooled pearls of bronze. Drill to the required hole size and then tap. Bronze is easier to cut than steel, so your tap should not suffer damage from the hard steel of the bracket or spindle. (Depends on your tool inventory - a can of MAPP gas or brazing fuel is $10, the drill bit and tap about $8.)
It may also be possible to fill the hole with weld filler material such as 6011 or 6013 -  - however, machining iron that has been welded may be very very difficult as the carbon deposits harden the steel weld. There are equally some metallurgical considerations if you are going to use a wire fed welder ( MIG or FCAW ).

5. Buy a new spindle/bracket. The price depends on the availability of the parts from a scrap yard or what you can find online.

Links

http://www.repairengineering.com/thread-repair.html

http://www.locknstitch.com/pdf/gmrc_white_paper.pdf

Sustainable Design - Automobiles - Unifed Standards

In the world of computers, there are some standards : Voltages, ATX power supplies, hole locations for motherboard mounting, power connectors, RAM or memory types and slots, buses and other connections like USB, Ethernet, 802.11 etc.   Automobile manufacturers should and could have the same approach. Since the 1990s, and even earlier, automobiles have been considered mature products. Little has changed in the past 100 years ranging from an internal combustion engine, lights, steering wheel, hydraulic brakes and air inflated tires. If there were a limited number of categories of vehicles with respect to weight and usage, the interchangeability of parts would be a step towards sustainability. It would improve manufacturing processes by making the industry more competitive, while allow engineers and technicians to develop solutions which would make our vehicles safer and more efficient. Better quality materials would also make the cars last longer.

An automobile with an internal combustion engine has many components which shouldn't vary from one vehicle to another :

• Brakes : A hydraulic system where a piston with a large surface is depressed with low pressure resulting in high pressure at the brake calipers and wheel cylinders  If the cars were known to carry a maximum amount of weight / passengers, at a given speed, the brakes are to be designed to be able to absorb a given amount of energy.  Make a single size of caliper, brake pad and rotor that would fit all cars in that same class. Standards for the brake fittings would also be appreciated. ( in the case of electric motors, regenerative brakes are another case altogether. I can't wait for them to go mainstream. On that note, autonomous cars would also be appreciated. ) Protected brake lines which are made of copper-nickel, would ensure that they last more than 10 years in areas where salt accelerates corrosion.
• Tires : There are standards when it comes to tires and wheels, however the variety is superfluous. If there was a norm for all sedans to have 380mm (15") or 355mm(14") wheels, the tire size could be set for all cars - width, aspect ratio. At the time being, using a tire that is larger or smaller, thus a change in circumference/diameter, can result in a damaged automatic transmission. More vehicles using the same size tires and wheels would mean less tires and wheels being scrapped.
• Suspension, steering rack etc. : There have been countless hours spent on redesigning the wheel. Some changes to the components can improve the ride of a car, yet for most the changes are not that noticeable. Springs and struts could be of standard size and fitting, likewise for many of the other components of a steering rack.
• Electrical components : This is quite easy. A simple start would be a numbering system for fuses. There are already many standards when it comes to the light bulbs on vehicles. Electric locks, window regulator motors, audio system connections etc. could also be the same across all vehicles.
• Disposables : Spark plugs, oil filters, PCV valves, thermostats, air filters- same sizes and locations ( right/left )  for all vehicles could also be designed within a certain class. 

There are some standards for items like fluids, such as motor oil, coolant, brake fluid and automatic transmission fluid. Were standards be to extended for other parts, automobiles would seen as a technological triumph improving our lives.

Sustainable Design - Razors - 5 blade, 4 blade, 3 blade, twin blade, double edge safety razor. Which one is best?

I am a fool. Retail therapy, impulse buys and occasional bad days made me spend far more than I needed on razors. 

My razor collection (sic). Left to right : Schick Hydro 5, Double Edge razor(reflective band to differentiate with my roommate's), M5 Personna/Baléa, twin safety disposable razor (Personna?), Gillette Fusion

For millennia,  the straight razor, a piece of metal sharpened and honed to cut hair was used a razor. It needs to be maintained, however is it reliable and provides a good clean shave. From the design standpoint, it is close to perfect : effective, long lasting, easy of use, low cost. A straight razor can be acquired for $6, a whetstone for another $5, and a strop for $2. All three will outlive you. There is a learning curve with regard to the maintenance of the blade, however that applies to most objects we want to keep for a long period of time. A move that I intend to do soon.

For the sake of reviewing, I will describe my experiences about the various commercial razors shown above. As a disclaimer, I must state that my preference is the double edge razor - in part for low cost, in part for convenience, in part for reducing the amount of waste that I create. Plastic and metals are recyclable, however when they are joined in a disposable razor head it is a costly process.

So much manufacturing technology that goes in to the garbage after only a couple weeks.

The most advertised Gillette Fusion is a 5 blade razor. It lasts a couple weeks - or 4 if you only shave 4 days a week according to Gillette. At close to $4 a piece, it is a little steep. That is about 25¢ a shave if you are really pushing it. They can be maintained with a bit of patience by stropping them on denim jeans. I haven't had that much luck. At two strokes a second for 100 strokes, it corresponds to less than a minute. I could give it another shot, however the quality of the shave wouldn't justify that effort. The brilliance of disposable items is a marker of progress? Please explain.

With regard to the construction, the handle and cartridge holder are the weakest parts of the razor. While I understand the use of soft rubber ribs to improve grip, it doesn't feel very solid or pleasant. The head holders are exposed which could be damaged by an accidental drop. 

Shaving is fine, however I still managed to cut myself, get shaving bumps and have had a hard time under the nose (philtral column) and above the chin (mentolabial sulcus or the location a labret piercing). 

The Shick Hydro 5 with the lubrication strip folded back for better reach

The M5 - A very solid blade, but it still get plugged with hair

The other 5 blade contenders are the Schick Hydro 5 (far left) and the Balea or Personna M5(centre). Both have much better handles than the Gillette Fusion, with no exposed parts on the M5, but the shaving head suffers from some of the clogging problems that I encountered with the Gillette Fusion. The cost per shave for each are overpriced. While the finish of the Schick handle is great - anodized aluminum is beautiful and the rubber is very firm, cartridges are too expensive. In fact, I would like to have that handle for my double edge razor.

The disposable razor is the worst. The shave is fine, but it isn't very satisfying. It will get you by, but the top blade gets plugged, impossible to clean properly, and only lasts a about a week. It costs about 5¢ per shave if you get them in a pack of 5 for a dollar or so.

My favourite by far is the double edge razor. I recently received a Merkur as a gift. I love it. There are plenty of knock offs, which do a great job. You may have to try a variety of different blades to see which one is the best match of with your razor. The bend angle of the razor, your holding angle, the angle of the blade, the thickness of the blade and ultimately the growth pattern of your hair are just a few variables that come to mind. It comes to about 2¢ a shave, pushing it to about 1¢. The blades can be sharpened or stropped over denim or leather. A sharpener could be built from a few wheels that roll around or over the whetstone, a block of wood with the angle adjusted for the blades.  Perhaps, I will build a sharpener and post the construction details.

Sustainable Design - Electronics – IR LED Illuminator – Voltage regulation

In the mechanical world, like an automobile, bicycle, pumps, drilling equipment or a wind turbine, overbuilding is accomplished by very high safety to failure ratios, heavier grade and corrosion resistant materials, proper cooling, etc. In the electronic world, many of the same practices are put into place. However in the name of efficiency and production costs, they are not respecting the guidelines of sustainable design.

I have purchased a few IR LED illuminators FY-5036. They go for $2 to $5 a piece. (http://feyond.en.alibaba.com/product/60007976003-800271647/cheapest_infrared_illuminator_led_factory_for_60_CCTV_Camera.html or a cheaper model http://feyond.en.alibaba.com/product/60290814991-221418555/China_supplier_48pcs_led_panel_light_CCTV_led_lamp_for_cctv_camera.html )

The circuit is composed of LED in series of 6 groups of 6 ( 36 LEDs ), a light dependent resistor ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photoresistor ) with a infrared or IR mask which bears a greenish tint, a transistor 2SD2150, some current limiting resistors and another resistor marked as M6 which corresponds to PNP 2SA812.
What is missing in this circuit to make it durable or sustainable? LEDs are sensitive to voltage and current. Too much of either will burnout the resistor and eventually the whole of the series will stop functioning. If the LEDs are limited to 20mA (http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/850nm-5mm-round-IR-color-led_60377496110.html?spm=a2700.7724838.30.18.puVDe3&s=p ) they should last about 50000 hours or about 5.5 years. If used withing operating conditions - 20mA at 1.3 to 1.5V. Increase the voltage and current, the LEDs may only last a few days, or even seconds. Decreasing the voltage would result in less illuminaton, but the LEDs would last much longer.
What would be a low cost solution to ensure that the circuit would last much longer? A simple voltage regulator. How much would it cost? Is there room for it?

1. How: The voltage regulator can be a simple as a resistor and a zener diode. The resistor will limit the whole of the current to the circuit and the 12V Zener would limit the voltage. This is one example of a low cost http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/MMSZ5242B-500mw-Axial-Lead-12v-Zener_765722089.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.iFVnuj&s=p
   
2. Cost : A few hundreds of a cent. Some board redesign, but the benefits would outweigh the costs to the environment and to the users.
   
3. Space : The circuit in on a double sided Printed Circuit Board (PCB). There is plenty of room.
   

I recently installed a rear view camera on my car. The IR LEDs burnt out before I even got the chance to try it at night.
Who is at fault with these cost optimized designs? Engineers, technicians, accountants, stock holders, consumers who want to pay the least possible? I think it is everyone's fault, however regulatory bodies, and consumer protection advocates, could ensure that our devices last much much longer.

PS. A 9V battery can be connected to these units. They work, but the lighting isn't very strong. 

A 2002 Ford Focus - Repairs and maintenance to date with costs

I hate cars, but I realise how useful they are. In a city or going about in a rural area, an automobile makes it possible to get from A to B in the least amount of time possible.
The greatest frustration about working with cars is rusted components which are stuck in place. Something that should only take about a minute, can take hours. Literally.

This review of a 2002 Ford Focus done in 2015 makes me feel like an idiot, however working on the car was a learning experience. Better than gold. I feel confident work or more cars in the future.

My tools consist of a breaker bar($13), telescopic flex head ratchet($20), a beefy set of impact impact sockets ($100)so that I have every size and depth that I need, simple combo($30) and line wrenches($20) - Most important of all : jack stands($25) and a torque wrench ($45). I cannot forget my 3lb mallet ($8). It does make life easier. Never underestimate what impact can do.
Oh! I needed my flux core welder($150) and angle grinder ($30) for the exhaust repair. Both are useful and fun tool to have nonetheless. 

As the vehicle is getting older, with over 180000km, some repairs and maintenance were necessary :

Blower Fan Fuse (135000km) - This one was rather stupid. Water off the windshield flows into the car on the passenger side. The floor can be flooded after a heavy rain. I removed the resistor pack, soldered on a new thermal fuse (185C), put some silicone lube on the blower and ultimately spread a bead of silicone caulk at the base of the windshield. Since, my vehicle has stayed dry inside. $2 for ten thermal fuses and $5 for a 300ml tube of silicone caulk.  

Coil Pack (140000km)- I was on a road trip - my OBD2 tool($10 or less) indicated it was a piston misfire. It was so. Corrosion got into my coil pack and corroded it. The garage ripped me off saying that I also had to replace the spark plug cables... $400 ! It started my interest in doing my own automobile maintenance. The installation was billed 2 hours, but I saw the mechanic do it in 20 minutes. A coil pack goes for as little as $25. Had I the knowledge to do it myself, it would have cost maybe $70, maybe less had I just cleaned the contacts of the coil pack and the spark plug wire.

Struts, lower ball joint and sway bar links (160000km) - I only needed to replace the struts as one of the springs has broken at the base of the spring. I was just about to replace the brakes pads and rotors before a safety inspection.  It was about $200 for all the parts.
I was getting sick of it, after fighting with some of the bolts. I paid for an alignment. Apparently, it was much easier than I had thought.

Automatic Transmission Filter and flush (160000km) - It was long overdue. A 18.9 litre pail of ATF at Walmart was $50 ( I only needed about 10 litres) and the filter was $25. About 20 bolts needed to be removed and replaced, but it was quite easy.

Exhaust flex joint (160000km) - It was needed much earlier, but I put off. It took me more time to remove the studs from the existing exhaust line. once the old parts were out, it was a couple cuts with the angle grinder, the new flex joint and old pipes in place, marked, tack welded, removed and finally welded all around. The flex joint was $12, the hardware, gaskets added  $10 to the total.

Timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt and pulley (175000km)- Replacing belts is more maintenance than repair. A few hours of work, some frustration to notice missing bolts when putting it back together. About $100 for the belts, pulley and the pump. I changed the coolant. It was cheap - maybe $15 or so. Buy the antifreeze and distilled water separately - you can adjust the mix to your region.

Brake cylinders, calipers, hoses and rigid brake lines (180000km) - That one is in progress. A safety inspection less than a year earlier did not identify any problems with my brake lines, but I was suspicious of the flakes of corrosion. It is irresponsible of the auto manufacturers to use steel instead of copper lines which would prevent the possibility of catastrophic brake failure.
I replaced everything but the bulk of solid lines to the brake master cylinder - rear wheel cylinders due to one leak, front calipers due to corrosion, hoses due to corrosion. A rear wheel cylinder is about $18, caliper $50, hoses $65 for all four and the rigid brake line is where I am stuck - I have to get a good flaring tool to complete the job as pre-made brake lines are not available with fittings of M12x1.0 and M10x1.0 on opposite ends. Finding a coupler with odd sizes may even be more difficult! A coil of copper nickel 3/16 brake line is $50 ( in Canada - close to $30USD) and the various fittings and couplers should come up to around $25. - Total for all brake components ( no pads/shoes ) $275.

When replacing the pads and rotors it is about $75. I don't think I can be bothered to resurface my rotors to save $35. Maybe I should learn how to do it.

Oil Changes  (every 5000km to 10000km) : This one doesn't save you much money: a filter is $5-$8 and a jug of oil $15. You can get an oil change for $30. Changing the oil yourself gives you a chance to look under your car and see if all is skookum. At the stealership, you may be told that you need to change this and that, however it is often a cash grab.
I should note that I am surprised that using high mileage oil, which appears to be simply more viscous than regular 5W20, appears to have little to no contamination after 6000km. It could be the highway driving, the cold temperatures or my driving habits. Actually fuel efficiency did not change either. I still get about 7L/100km or 33MPG. That isn't great, but still better than the average car on the road today.

Honestly, adding useless features like a rearview camera, fog lights and replacing the original lights with LEDs, is more fun than struggling with rusted bolts.

DO NOT make a Bubble ISO Flare using a Double Flare Tool - How to test a brake line flare

It looks close to a commercial bubble flare, but it doesn't seal.

Earlier last month, the brake light on my cluster seemed intermittent. It went away and the car and the brakes seemed fine. All of a sudden, that is after about a month, I found that the brakes became mushy, I really had to push the pedal to get it to brake properly. Once home, I opened the hood and saw that the brake fluid had been much drained from the reservoir.  Ironically, the brake light came on and off with the parking brake. The parking brake light, or brake light, was off with this unfortunate discovery.

Removing wheel by wheel, I found that the back of the driver side drum was wet. Not quite wet, but the corroded steel retained the leaking brake fluid. It was actually quite scary.

Unable to find a precut and flared piece of brake line at the right length, I bought a 25' coil of 3/16" steel brake line for $12 (CAD), the M10x1.0 flare nuts (about 1$ a piece) and forged ahead with the tools that I have. The results were disappointing.

The cutting wheel is not straight as the axle bolt became eccentric with use.
Lubrication and less pressure would avoid such an issue.
The cut line can be filed down.

There are instructions to make a bubble flare using general double flare tools, but I am not keen on watching videos on Youtube. ( Another video ) This is an excellent article on using the proper tools http://www.dcfiats.org/tech/Bubble_Flare_article.pdf , however I summarize my experience using a Double Flare Tool - it wasn't great.

1. Ensure that the tube is relatively straight coming out of the coil. The less the curvature the better.
2. Cut brake line with a tube cutter. I found that the mini tube cutter was not only dull, but difficult to use. Mine broke as I turned the cutting wheel in. A larger diameter cutter, with a deburring tool is best. The threads of the cutting tool pressure bolt, as well as the axle of the cutting wheel axle should be lubricated with a graphite based grease. 
3. Set the brake line in the anvil or clamp bar with the flat side up. (The reverse side of the flaring bar with a 45 degree chamfer. This kit (USA) is nice as the flaring bar as well as the yoke have a standard hex nuts allowing you clamp or flare using a ratchet.
4. Have the brake line protrude by 5.8mm or ¼ inch, the 4.75mm die depth is fine. Clamp the  nuts on the clamp bar. It may be necessary to use a wrench to properly tighten the bolts. 
5. Lubricate the die with brake fluid. Lubricate threads of the yoke with a graphite or a molybdenum based grease. 
6. Set the die on the opening of the brake line.
7. Set the yoke on the clamp bar and die and compress to create the bubble flare.

I followed the instructions in the videos and on http://1929fordhotrod.com/johnsblog/2011/04/27/iso-metric-bubble-flare-brakes-lines-easy/ however, almost all of my flares leaked. I tried with a new piece of line, straighter than the edge of crystal, but, I still could not get it to flare and seal properly.

It did not compress or mate well at all with the ISO union.
In addition to leaking when installed, it failed the test procedure as shown below.

I eventually gave up and bought an ISO flare tool. All the tools are the same, however this one, made in, the hyper industrialized and open society, Taiwan, does not feel that well made. On my first flare, the centering pin broke. The dies are made from soft steel, maybe equivalent to a grade 2 bolt. The double flaring tools are at least made with hardened steel.

I returned to the retailer to get a replacement. It went through my mind to bring a piece of line, a flare fitting, a union and a black marker to test it on the spot.

I got the impression that someone was either not maintaining the punching tools, asleep, or didn't care. The size marking could at least be in line with the die.

What I like about this tool are the hex heads for clamping and flaring.
The threads on the yoke and the compression bolt could be a little tighter. A finer thread would also ensure less angle distortion as the die compresses on the brake line.
My guess it is the yoke, however both cutting tools, tap, die, would make tighter threads with wear.

The flaring bar is electro-polished(I think) tool steel. My file could barely touch it. 

Flaring instructions

What the flares should look like. It would be good that the tools be sold with a gauge.
I am unable to measure nor guess the angle or the diameter of my flares.
A piece of steel or aluminum cut to profile could be used to ensure that the flare fits without too much play.

Neither look perfect, or even good for that matter, but a test will see.
I see them as off centre, uneven or lopsided bubble flares.

A combination of problems with this flare : (a) the clamp was uneven or not flat across both sides.
(b) tool marks or marring on the section flared made it that much worse.
Failure is the best teacher. Then again, it isn't good when our economy gives us the sense that we are one.

(Updated January 21st 2016)

How to test your flares

Using a black permanent marker, cover the contact surface of the flare.
The union on the left is used to test the mating surface.

Using line wrenches or regular wrenches, mate the flared line with a union. Somehow the nut is 12mm whereas the size of the union is 1/2". I tried the 13mm, but there was too much play. I imagine that is deliberate, as flare wrenches are sold in bundled metric/SAE sets. It could also be that the stock of union hex bar are all 1/2 and the individual pieces are then machined for various thread and flare types.

This is a little far, but compress the flare down. This image is from my attempt using the double flare tool.

Barely passable, actually, "If it isn't perfect, it isn't worth it!"
For this bubble flare test, I used the flat side of the flaring bar
like OTC Stinger 4504 and Neiko bubble flaring bars

Notice how the fitting or brake line nut flattens out the back of the bubble flare.

Left to right : A lot of pressure on the yoke (okay), less pressure (best)
and clamp bar flat side(not acceptable) to create the flares

Discussion

Seeing the different hand flaring tools available, I couldn't help but wonder why isn't there a different design for hand compression tools :

• A solid bolt whose thread fits that of the yoke - the bolt head is machined to the shape of the ISO bubble flare. The end of the bolt could be fitted with two nuts which lock against each other. A ratchet with the correct size could be used to compress the brake line in the correct shape. If the bolt has to be held in the lathe to make the female flare die shape, it will be centered no matter what.
• The use of a union or section of an old brake cylinder to form the bubble flare. Material mass and hardness may be an issue.
• Make dies of stronger material. A tube straightener could also aid the process. 
• Idiot proofing by designing the tool to require a flare nut to be on the line to make the flare?!

What would be better than designing a new tool? Local suppliers and retailers offer rentals or borrowing of properly working flaring tools, or if the value of the flare tool is too high, a flaring service. A hydraulic flaring tool may cost a couple hundred dollars, but it would ensure proper flares.

Another thing that comes to mind is a automobile service specialized in brake line repair. There are muffler shops, why not for brakes? Are there enough cars on the road that need new brake lines? Could the service be made more affordable? A database with the length of the brake lines of all automobiles so that the customer could come and have the lines quickly replaced?  3D drawings dimensions of  the brake lines - an automated bending tool to process the order for each vehicle? The parts are inexpensive - is it the labour, the insurance, the overhead? Should manufacturers be mandated to use copper nickel brake lines?

Links

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-88833.html

(It seems like I am not the only one struggling with the flares. I forgot about the work hardening of the steel line. After having broken my mini tube cutter, I bought a regular sized one. It cuts nicely after I lubed the threads and wheels, but it work hardens. I may have to try a rotary tool or hack saw - there are differing points of view on how to cut brake line.) 

http://www.jamesandtracy.co.uk/howto/Mercedes_E-class_replace_rusty_brake_pipes.html
This is an excellent write up on the replacement of brake lines.
The author is right to say that investing in copper nickel brake lines is the best choice. I found a coil to be about $50 CAD on Amazon.ca  - $18 in the USA. A coil of CuNi brake line is about $35 locally or $3 a foot at Canadian Tire - ($75 for 25'). CuNi brake line will also reduce the risk of breaking your flaring tools.
If you live in Canada, go to the parts desk of Canadian Tire to the get the fittings -most, but not all will be cheaper than from the rack. The M10x1.0 bubble flare nuts were $0.77 (part# FMS3028), the M12x1.0 were $2.58 (part# FMS3041 - my master cylinder has a different type of fitting than on the rest of the lines) - those prices were considerably cheaper than other shoppes that I checked out.  However, don't be surprised to find that your local shop, like CAPS, may even have better prices.
In the USA http://catalog.wdautoparts.com/ or Rock Auto.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/sealing-brake-bleeder-threads.900262/
I wish I had known about using pipe dope around the threads of a bleeder nipple. It would make it easier to bleed brakes. That would also prevent corrosion of the threads into the brake caliper/wheel cylinder

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/brake-line-flaring-procedure-questions.800370/
A good presentation from a newbie on how to make a double flare. Good points about the lubrication, and what a poorly formed flare looks like.

http://howtobuildhotrods.com/brake-lines-several-secrets-to-avoid-replacement/68/

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481299

http://www.dcfiats.org/tech/Bubble_Flare_article.pdf

http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=tech2

http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf 

http://www.slideshare.net/StanislavPliassounov/bus-case 

Notes
With no luck with either off the shelf tools, that is after my first ISO flare tool die broke, I went out and bought straight off the shelf flared brake lines with fittings. They were about 12cm too long, but I did manage. I saw the copper nickel lines, however, the flares were not very nice, nor did the walls of the lines seem uniform. Looking underneath the hood, the lines bear quite a bit of corrosion. I have to replace all the lines, but I may have to live with a pressure test for now. It was 20 degrees below freezing that morning. Another day was dedicated to install new brake lines.