Windows 10 - Display driver failed to start - crash - XBOX 360 Wireless Controller - Exit to sign in screen - DRIVER ROLLBACK FIX!!

I just couldn't figure out what it was.

I tried loading a game that played perfectly fine for the longest time. Then suddenly, it all seemed broken. It loaded seemingly fine, started with the video adapter display assembly clip, development software splash screen, etc.  then the screen blinked black and the video driver crashed. Most of the time, Windows would exit me to the sign in (login) screen.

I looked at the report from Windows in the lower right corner of the screen

I tried uninstalling then reinstalling the video drivers with DDU to no avail.
I tried DirectX 11 Heaven and DirectX12 Benchmarks Infiltrator, and no issues came about. The video driver played find.

I was contemplating a fresh install of Windows. Then suddenly, after enough time on the confuser, going through the endless pages of troubleshooting, it made sense. The problem was with the software related to the Xbox controller. What was it? Video recording? No, no difference.

Then from the sign in screen, I would move the thumb stick or press the buttons on the controller. The screen would go black, the circle next to the mouse cursor would stop turning, the screen would flash. I tried it again in Windows with no game playing, just on the desktop. Same crash to sign in screen again. 

So where was the problem? The insider preview build?

I eventually narrowed the problem to the Xbox 360 Wireless controller driver. In fact there was an update to that driver that made my system unusable. For gaming with the controller that is.
Below are screenshots I used to address the problem:
Go to the device manager

You can roll back the drivers if available. But get rid of the driver 2017-01-15

 This is the driver you want!

 

All should be good from here. 

You can download the 1.2 Drivers from the Microsoft website

Android file management - as easy to manage since, forever.

Drag and drop is all you need to know - music, video, or any other file. Just copy and paste or drag and drop from a computer to your phone. I love simplicity.

Never use DHL as a shipping option when shopping online

I've been caught once, by receiving a package that was shipped from overseas, where the delivery worker arrived with a package and an acquisition fee for more than what the item was worth.

I looked into fighting it, but found out that the fee was not customs at the border, but the processing and transaction fee charged by DHL. Their FAQ is of no help.

Above shown is an invoice that was presented to me with the delivery of the package. The item is worth  $27. I paid the shipper $17 for shipping which I thought was reasonable. However when DHL delivered the item, they were collecting $3.48 for import tax, which I found fair, but collecting a processing and transaction fee of more than $14.

End of story. Never use DHL.

Updating Windows 10 Insider Preview - At least keep the dowloaded segments!

Are you even trying Microsoft?

I don't know how many times I have tried to update my insider preview, but I keep returning to my computer to find it back at the login screen.

Worse than that, the downloading starts back at zero. Will it ever download?

Do you want anybody to take part in the Windows Insider Program?

Limp mode, normal speed/rpm then no fuel when pressing on the accelerator? Change the Thermostat (Ford Focus and others)

Ugh! I couldn't wrap my head around this one. I would have an occasional stumble, then the car would suddenly be in idle mode - it wouldn't matter how hard I would press on the accelerator.
I would get no codes. If I floored it repeatedly, it would stumble somewhat and the fuel mixture would be rich (as per the OBDII readout).


This is what I tried :

• Fuel Pump : I got access by cutting the sheet metal under the back seat. Took out the pump with the sending unit, tested the pump, cleaned the contacts, and put it back in. It seemed fine, for a bit - but the stumble continued.
• DPFE : I tried cleaning it, then replacing it with another one. No change. My EGR is so rusted that I should have tried replacing that too, but time was short. 
• Oxygen sensors  : They measure the oxygen content before (upstream) and after (downstream) the catalytic converter. Running rich is not a good thing for neither the O2 sensor nor the catalytic converter. Again, time to get a replacement was an issue. I cleaned the upstream one with MAF cleaner and put it back in. The downstream sensor was so stuck in place, I couldn't get it out.

When the vehicle became so unreliable that I felt is was unsafe to turn with the fear of the engine no longer providing fuel to accelerate, I noticed that the temperature reading on my cluster was just left of centre. Connecting my ELM327 to my Android phone and using Torque, I saw the the coolant temperature of the vehicle never stayed above 80C! When the car somehow started operating normally, it was above 83C. Should I turn heat into the cab, by allowing coolant to go through the heat exchanger, the engine would suddenly stumble again as its temperature would drop below 80C. Thermostat maintenance was required. I should have changed it when I changed my water pump last year. The thermostat is designed to open at 88C or 192F. It appears that the thermostat was getting stuck open! Three bolts, well one was so rusted I had to break the thermostat housing, three hoses and and an electrical connection to the temperature sensor, and I got this mysterious automobile problem solved.

Since I've replaced the thermostat, the coolant temperature is between 90C to 93C and my fuel economy is back up to 6.1-7l/100km or 38 to 33 MPG.

Automobile sputtering/hesistation/loss of power in snowy or rainy conditions - MAF sensor and air filter

It was a rare occasion, but it worried me. When driving in the snow, or in the rain, or even very damp conditions, my engine would occasionally sputter. No engine codes would show up, and it was consistently around 75-85km/h or 2000 RPM ( or maybe 1800-2100 revolutions per minute). I had no idea why it was happening during a steady state operation.

I let my car be as the random sputter was just so rarely an issue - until last week. I thought it had to be fixed.

It may have been a combination of both the air filter and the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) or just one or another, but I serviced both. Since I changed the filter and cleaned the MAF, driving in heavy snow has not caused my engine to sputter.

Instructions for changing your air filter and cleaning the sensor are on the filter box, the sensor cleaner can and in your owner's manual. Nevertheless, for the sake of Google Images  I decided to post some of my experience.

When I had a garage change my filter, it was free as they try to sell other vehicle maintenance,
I have reason to believe that they just cracked the box open to take out the old filter and replace it with a new one. 

It seems like the construction of the new filters will minimize the risk of warping. There are two strips of glue or thermoplastic ( ie glue gun )  that greatly increase the filter's rigidity.

Spray the sensor with the cleaner ( mostly composed of hexane )  on both sides and let dry.
Following the instructions on the container is all that you need to do.

As a note, getting the old air filter out, was no easy task. I love plastic as it is inexpensive, non conductive, lightweight and flexible. I love metals as they are versatile, can be repaired, machined and often easily replaced. Unfortunately the screws and nuts that retained my filter in place were so corroded that I was unable to remove the filter enclosure cover and remove the whole filter box. There are some steps on how to repair it here,  however I just used zip-ties. Inelegant, I know, but it got the job done.

Before inserting the filter and reconnecting the duct, use some plumber's grease or dielectric grease to protect the rubber. I use the product from Oatey. It is composed of several weights of silicone oil, if you let it sit, the lighter oil will separate from the larger weight. The silicone also makes it easier to disassemble next time. 

The aluminum plate at the base of the sensor started to corrode.
I am not sure what is the source of corrosive material- battery acid, potash, lye? 

http://www.airtexproducts.com/news-blog-mass-airflow-sensor-an-easy-fix-for-big-problems-from-a-little-instrument.aspx

http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-crosstour-2003-current-118/mysterious-hesitation-when-driving-snow-06-accord-2679947/page2/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-2000-2004-Ford-Focus-Air-Cleaner-Box-for-un

Build a dash camera and back up/rearview camera using an old Android Phone for about $15 CAD

Using an old Android phone as a dashcam is not a new idea. There are plenty of options available in Google Play. Backup cameras can reduce the risks of accidents.  In reality, only once has either camera has ever really been useful to me, but with the intention of using my Android phone that I put aside as I returned to my BlackBerry Curve, I was thinking of how could I make the lowest cost dashcam/rearview camera/Offline GPS.

Here is what you need to get from the Google Play on your phone :

GPS - Sygic ( there are other options if you look around )
Dash Camera - CaroO
Web Camera - CameraFi

Parts :

$3 Windshield phone holder http://forums.redflagdeals.com/dollarama-gps-cell-phone-windshield-mount-3-00-a-1455931/

$3 Webcam as the rearview camera http://dollarablog.blogspot.ca/2013/12/gadgets-dordi-clavier-et-webcam.html
( Verdict: Acheter )
There will be no OSD (On-Screen Display) of the distances using a regular webcam. The camera is fine according to the review so it can give you an image of what is behind you.You could use some silicone caulk around the camera to make it waterproof. You do not need infrared LEDs as the brake lights give off plenty of light.


$4 USB 2.0 A to USB A female cable  http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-quality-10FT-3M-USB-2-0-Male-To-Female-Extension-Cable-Line-For-Computer-Laptop/712587_32400410442.html 
It may be some distance from your trunk to the dash. It may be possible to find a cheaper cable, or a camera with a longer cable.

$2 OTG Cable with Power http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-1pc-Micro-USB-Host-OTG-Cable-With-USB-Plug-Power-Adapter-For-Sumgsung-Galaxy-U/32571526812.html
You will want to power your phone all the time to record video. It will also allow you to power the USB camera.
 
$1.25 USB 12V output  http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Micro-Auto-Universal-Dual-2-Port-USB-Car-Charger-For-iPhone-For-iPad-Mini-Car-Charger/32444018162.html

How to hide your cables :
http://www.roadlens.com/#!how-to-conceal-power-cord/cahc